Repairing External Lights On Older Recreational
Vehicles
Author: Wallace Mize

As you enjoy your Recreational Vehicle, the years and the miles
start to show themselves in the outside lights. Running lights
flicker, then fail completely; backup lights work sporadically;
indicator and stop lights do not always give fair warning to
other motorists.

ALWAYS START BY CHECKING THE BULBS.

If a bulb is blown, it will never work. But if it works on and
off, and the filament inside is sound, suspect bad connections.


No need to rush over to a repair shop to get the connections
repaired. This is a job you can do yourself, even with no
electrical knowledge. Repair shops like to make it look like a
very tough job when, in fact, it is one of the simplest tasks.

WARNING: if the shop starts talking about re-wiring your
lights, jump in the cab and drive away as fast as you can.
Either they do not know what they are talking about, and will
wreck your vehicle, or they have marked you as an easy dupe and
are about to take you for a lot of money. Here is why:

1. The wiring of the outside lights is very solidly done at the
factory. The wires are stapled in place and will likely never
need replacement. Almost all troubles with outboard RV lights
are due to faulty ground connections, which are easy to remedy.


2. An outboard light has one wired connection, carrying the +12
volt battery supply. This is the only actual wire connecting to
the bulb fixtures. (Two wires for brake-signal-backup bulbs.)

3. The connection to the negative side of the battery (the
ground return) is through the vehicle chassis. In other words,
the battery is grounded to the chassis, and the electrical
circuits are normally grounded to the chassis, as well. This
makes it simpler to supply power to the circuits; only one
physical wire needs to be routed to each device. The negative
connection for an outside light is a simple sheet metal screw
fastened through the grounded aluminum siding of the vehicle.

4. Are any of the other running and signal lights working? If
so, the fuses are probably OK.

Again: make sure the bulbs are still good, and that the metal
spring contacts are tight against the bulb contacts. Running
lights have only one filament in the bulb, while the
signal-brake-backup bulbs have two, and therefore two wires and
spring connections to the back of the bulb.

THE USUAL PROBLEM? The grounding screw! The ground return is
through a screw fastened to the weakest part of the system --
the thin aluminum exterior siding of the RV. Bumpy roads, rain,
dirt, all help weaken the connections. The older the vehicle,
the more these screws work their way loose. Once the ground
screw starts to loosen even a little bit, the electricity
starts to arc; corrosion gathers in the joints between the
screw and the bulb connector, and between screw and chassis.

THE FIX? Clean up the connections. Here is how:

1. Remove the plastic light covers. The larger ones will have
little tabs on either side: push in the tab on one side and
gently lift the cover off. The small running lights will pry
off with gentle pressure from behind any one of the sides.

2. Inspect the grounding screw and the metal connection to the
light underneath it. You will likely see some corrosion, and
the screw may even be rattling around loose.

3. Remove the screw and polish up the connection with some fine
emery cloth (not sand paper) You want as smooth and shiny clean
a surface as possible for good electrical connectivity. Look
behind, at the screw hole in the aluminum siding. Clean that
up, too!

4. Replace the screw with a new one of the same size. If the
screw hole in the siding has been enlarged through miles of
vibrations, or over-tightening, then use a screw one size
larger in diameter. This will cut a slightly larger hole,
making a clean, new connection.

NEVER USE A LONGER SCREW! You never know what you might
puncture behind the aluminum sheeting!

Finally, tighten the grounding screw firmly in place, but not
so hard that you strip the hole.

5. Older light covers have flat putty strips on the inside for
waterproofing. (Most people prefer instead to run a thin bead
of silicone caulking around the outside edge of the colored
lens covers to keep dirt and moisture out.) Clean away all the
old putty first, though.

6. It pays to check all of the running or signaling lights once
you are at it. Re-tightening ALL the screws ensures that all
your lights will function well for a long time to come.
While you are at it, clean all those colored plastic lenses:
brush the dirt out and then give them a wash-up with a little
dish washing liquid. Your outboard lights will shine like new.

Now you are ready for many more years of road-running with safe
lights, and you will avoid fines for improper lighting.


About The Author: Wallace Mize is the owner of Mize RV Parts &
Accessories at http://www.mizerv.com. Mize RV is a family owned
and operated business located in the Houston metropolitan area,
that provides affordable, name-brand RV parts and accessories.