Bazaruto Archipelago, Mozambique
Author: Ann LoCicero

As we approached the Pelican Air counter in Johannesburg, South
Africa, I began searching through my bag for our flight
confirmation and passports. The woman at the desk smiled warmly
and cut my efforts short:

"Just your last names, please", she said.

The realization of just how far we had traveled was immediate.

Twenty years of civil war and a history of famine have kept
Mozambique and its Bazaruto Archipelago - one of Africa's most
precious treasures - off the tourist path. Not for long. The
government's commitment to democracy and foreign investment are
slowly changing the face of this remote corner of Africa.
Tourists are discovering its wonders, South Africans and
Italians above all. They were the majority of passengers on the
18-seat twin turbo prop plane bound for Vilanculos, the gateway
to the Archipelago. All well-healed tourists. No backpackers in
site.

To fully enjoy Bazaruto, you need to adapt your concept of
luxury. Although the resorts and lodges are sophisticated,
here, luxury means getting as close to nature as possible. Our
first brush with reality came shortly after landing. Visas
purchased and luggage in hand, we were whisked to the boat
landing in a comfortable minivan. As we approached the coast,
we spied a craft anchored in the shallow water. That was it.
There was no dock much less a harbor. Our initial uncertainty
was short lived. In a matter of seconds our small group was
removing shoes and socks, rolling up the legs of trousers and
wading out to the sleek fishing boat.

The Bazaruto Archipelago was declared a national marine park
since 1971 to protect the islands' more than 250 species of
birds, butterflies and crocodiles. The Archipelago consists of
five islands: Santa Carolina (also called Paradise Island),
Bazaruto, Benguerra, Margaruque and Benque. The 25-minute boat
ride to Benguerra Island was a perfect way to arrive. The
contrast between the deep blue sky, turquoise water and stark
white sandbars rising up from the sea remains one of the most
memorable images of our trip.

Snorkeling and diving along the Archipelago's virgin coral reef
is an unforgettable experience. While isolation has carried a
steep price for Mozambique, the dearth in tourism has ensured
that this part of Africa's Indian Ocean coast is today
unexploited. The diversity of marine species is phenomenal. Not
wanting to miss an opportunity, my daughter and I rushed off to
the beach, snorkel gear in hand, moments after we arrived.
There were seashells everywhere. So many that we forgot all
about snorkeling and busied ourselves examining each and every
one.

The next morning we woke to find the beach roughly 100 yards -
nearly a full soccer field - longer than the previous
afternoon. The coves and inlets had been transformed into an
endless stretch of sand. Wading in the shallow waters was
nothing short of an underwater safari. There were starfish of
every shape and color and seahorses frolicked in the reeds.
"Look, a cowfish!", I cried. "Oh, there's a crab", my daughter
shouted. The lodge staff suggested wearing water shoes at low
tide. We were thankful to have followed their advice.

Returning home, I wondered which of the following memories
would remain, a private picnic on Pansy Island, dune boarding
on Bazaruto, snorkeling along a virgin reef, or the solitude of
an endless beach shared with but a lone fisherman.

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About The Author: Ann LoCicero is the founder of
http://www.kidscantravel.com an emergent website for families
intent on making the most of their leisure time together.