Perfume In Ancient Egypt
Author: Roberto Sedycias
Perfume was at the centre of aesthetics and therapeutics for
both men and women in Ancient Egypt. Although the techniques
used are mostly unrecorded, historians look to the literature of
Greek and Roman writers and relief paintings and artefacts to
determine the production, fashions and uses of perfume in this
fascinating era.
The act of making perfume was considered an art form in Ancient
Egypt. The craftsperson was considered to be an artist and the
profession was open to women as well as men. The perfume making
process of extraction can be determined by reliefs on the walls
of tombs in Petosiris. These show that perfume making had an
overseer, workers who completed the extraction and a
professional tester who completed rigorous testing using the
sense of smell.
The reliefs also pictorially detail two extraction processes.
The first process shown was an ancient mechanical extraction
process which was similar to wine production. This required a
large bag and two staffs which were used as a press. The second
was a form of chemical extraction with the assistance of heat
and soaking in alcohol. The processes are early versions of
modern perfume extraction techniques that have only really
advanced in terms of equipment available and synthetic
ingredients.
The reliefs also show red berries poured from a container,
which details the nature of the products used to extract
different scents. The ingredients used in perfume were usually
plant in origin such as henna and cinnamon. The ancient natural
philosopher, Pliny the Elder, records floral scents such as
iris, bitter almond and lilies in his Natural History as being
used in abundance. Myrrh which is a resin from shrubs and other
aromatic woods were used. Animal fats such as musk are also
recorded as being used in some perfumes. Some Egyptian recipes
are still in existence though they are difficult to replicate.
However, the Egyptians had typically exotic tastes, and in
addition to home grown essences, they also imported aromatics
such as ladanum from Arabia and East Africa, galbanum from
Persia, and the coveted frankincense due to unsuccessful
attempts to grow it in Egyptian climes. The fact that
ingredients were imported even in ancient times shows the
importance of perfume. The imported varieties were expensive and
initially reserved for the use of the gods or export only.
Excavated reliefs show that from ancient times the blend and
quantity of perfume was as important as how long the scent would
last. Perfume was a major export material in ancient times with
various countries battling to produce the highest quality.
Susinum was a particular favourite, and the competitive nature
shows that in ancient times, some form of uniformity and
standard was expected. Pliny the Elder described an Egyptian
perfume that retained its scent after 8 years, and the ancient
Greek botanist, Dioscorides, agreed that Egyptian perfume was
far superior to that made by other civilisations.
Egyptian perfumes were usually named after the town of
production or the main ingredient. Storage was in glass or stone
vessels, with alabaster being the most coveted. The decoration
was ornate and often bejewelled, with packaging reflecting
modern day requirements of functionality and attractiveness.
Perfume was burnt as incense, as named in documents from the
reign of Thutmose III which detail different varieties such as
green incense and white incense. Perfume was worn for aesthetic
reasons, in the form of oil based liquid infusions, or wax and
fat for creams and salves. This suggests there was also a
medicinal purpose recognised.
Perfume was mainly for the elite classes until the golden age.
It was used by kings who were believed to be of divine descent
as it was believed that the gods favoured perfume. High
officials were anointed with perfume when they were appointed to
office to call the favour of the gods.
Incense was used to hide the smell of animal sacrifice during
ceremonies. Balms were seen as medicinal as perfume was thought
to repel demons and win the favour of the gods. Perfume was also
an important part of death and burial rites. Bodies were
perfumed during mummification as it was believed the soul would
visit the gods and so perfume would repel demons. Interestingly,
3300 years after Tutankhamen death, scent could still be
detected in his tomb.
About The Author: This article can also be accessed in
portuguese language from the Article section of page
http://www.polomercantil.com
Sedycias works as IT consultant for
http://www.polomercantil.com
